Former Gurkha Hari Budha Magar has made mountaineering history by becoming the first double above-knee amputee to reach the highest peaks on all seven continents, after successfully summiting Mount Vinson in Antarctica.
The landmark achievement was completed following a demanding three-day climb in extreme conditions, with temperatures dropping to –25°C. Mr Magar reached the 4,892-metre summit alongside fellow climber Abiral Rai Mingma Sherpa and expedition leader Jangbu Sherpa.
Mount Vinson, the highest peak in Antarctica, presented severe challenges, including powerful winds, treacherous slopes and frozen ice fields, placing significant strain on both climbers and equipment.
Extreme conditions on the final ascent
Speaking after the climb, the former Royal Gurkha Rifles non-commissioned officer described the ascent as one of the most physically demanding of his career.
“The climb was very tough,” he said. “The conditions and difficulty meant that I was literally crawling up on all fours, battling my way up the mountain.”
The team first crossed the Branscomb Glacier, travelling roped together to reduce the risk posed by deep crevasses. They then ascended more than 1,000 metres using fixed ropes on steep 45-degree slopes, where a mix of soft snow and windblown ice slowed their progress.
From high camp, the final push to the summit involved exposed ridges and strong winds.
“Summit day was cold and clear, with not a cloud in the sky,” Mr Magar said. “But the wind was strong.”
A milestone following life-changing injury
Mr Magar lost both legs above the knee in 2010 after being injured by an improvised explosive device while serving in Afghanistan. Despite the severity of his injuries, he has gone on to achieve multiple mountaineering records.
He has previously said his aim is to act as a role model for injured service personnel, demonstrating that disability does not have to limit ambition or achievement.
Summiting Mount Vinson completes his long-running Seven Summits challenge, which began in 2018, and represents a significant milestone both in adaptive mountaineering and in raising awareness of disability.
Raising funds for veterans
Alongside the sporting achievement, Mr Magar is using his challenge to raise money for a number of veterans’ charities, including The Gurkha Welfare Trust, Blesma, Team Forces, On Course Foundation and Pilgrim Bandits.
After struggling with both physical and mental recovery following his injuries, Mr Magar has said support from his family and veteran organisations played a key role in helping him rebuild his life.
He has described the completion of the Seven Summits as part of a wider mission to encourage others facing adversity to pursue their own goals.
