Former Gurkha Hari Budha Magar has become the first double above-knee amputee to reach the summit of Mount Aconcagua, the highest peak outside Asia at 6,960m (22,837ft). The achievement marks another milestone in his attempt to complete the Seven Summits challenge, climbing the highest mountain on each continent within 12 months.
Challenging Conditions on Aconcagua
Hari, who lost both legs in Afghanistan, described the climb as physically and mentally exhausting. “Every mountain brings its own challenges, but for me, these are amplified with my disability,” he said. “I climb three times slower than an able-bodied mountaineer, which increases fatigue.”
Aconcagua is known for harsh winds and unpredictable weather. To manage the conditions, his team carefully timed their movements. “The wind is famously the challenge, but we’ve been very lucky and strategic in how and when we’ve chosen to move,” he explained.
Reaching the summit required the team to establish an additional Camp 4 to combat exhaustion. The descent added further difficulties, forcing Hari to change his prosthetic legs on snow and ice, a process requiring both time and precision.
Seven Summits Challenge
Having already climbed Everest in 2023, Hari has now completed five of the seven summits. His final two challenges are Puncak Jaya in Oceania and Mount Vinson in Antarctica. If successful, he will become the first double above-knee amputee to complete the Seven Summits, a feat achieved by fewer than 500 people in history.
“This journey started in 2018 when I fought the Supreme Court to allow me to climb Everest,” he said. “It was always a childhood dream, but after losing my legs, I wanted to challenge perceptions of disability.”
Hari views his Seven Summits challenge as more than a personal goal. “Everest was a great start, but it isn’t enough to show people once. You need to do it over and over to inspire real change,” he said.
Advancing Prosthetic Technology
Before the expedition, Hari worked with prosthetics specialists at Ottobock in Germany to refine his climbing equipment. “The new prosthetic designs we tested out on Aconcagua were incredible,” he said. “They gave me more movement and control, which made a real difference, especially on slippery or uneven terrain.”
His success highlights the importance of advancing prosthetic technology, demonstrating how innovation can enhance mobility and independence.
Support and Teamwork
Hari was joined on the climb by fellow veteran and endurance athlete Sally Orange, a mental health campaigner. “Hari continues to push the limits of what’s possible, proving that disability is no barrier to adventure,” she said.
Expedition leader Rami Rasamny from Life Happens Outdoors praised Hari’s determination. “There wasn’t a person who didn’t stop in awe of this incredible human being. Humble, good-humoured, and always smiling, all whilst scaling one of the world’s most demanding peaks,” he said.
Raising Funds for Veterans
Hari is using his Seven Summits challenge to raise funds for veterans’ charities, including:
- Blesma
- The Gurkha Welfare Trust
- On Course Foundation
- Pilgrim Bandits
- Team Forces
With two summits left, Hari Budha Magar continues to break barriers in mountaineering and challenge perceptions of disability.
